The Technique of the Moulage

by Julien Cristofoli

Design is not an exact science. While there are rules and basic principles, each model presents a specific case. Each particular case is resolved by applying the basic principles, around which one adds experimentation, imagination, and an open mind, for all is possible....or nearly.

A successful design brings together three critera:

• aplomb: equilibrium and perfect fit
• allure: line, shape
• comfort: one wears and lives in and with the garment

The moulage is a technique of patternmaking consistent with working directly on the mannequin with muslin. This draping process allows a quick and precise development of line, shape, and the proportions of the design.

The moulage is manual, artistic, and creative; it is akin to sculpture.

The material, muslin, is transformed into a garment by working directly on the mannequin, according to its shape, which is enveloped, draped, and clothed. This technique permits one to realize a muslin pattern according to a specific design. The muslin allows the designer to verify, before cutting into fashion fabric, that the idea, the line, the proportions, the shape are as intended by the designer.

The work is done on a couture mannequin, onto which have been placed the construction lines (center back, center front, shoulder line, bustline, waistline, small hip and hip). These lines are also drawn on the muslin, and the process of the moulage consists of transposing these lines onto the mannequin in the desired shape. The muslin is pinned on the mannequin, the objective being to translate the style and shape of the design.

The process should also incorporate technical qualities, and hopefully coveys the artistic message of the designer as the designs are translated into muslin.

For more information, please Email or call Susan Khalje at (410) 592-5711.

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